I've just changed mine in 20 minutes as follows: Tools needed - small crosshead screwdriver, drill, mole grips, 8mm socket, pop rivet gun and 4 suitable rivets. If you haven't got one of these they cost very little at a DIY store and you will always have it for future rope changes.
Method: Remove two screws holding cover. drill out 4 pop rivets holding pull cord assembly. Remove, and pull cord to full extent until just the knot remains inside. Using the mole grips, gently clamp the outer ring to the spool, this will give you the exact recoil. Using existing cord as a length guide, thread new cord. Remove the three 8mm bolts holding the fuel tank and plastic ring, and lean this assembly back towards the bars - you only do this to get access for the nose of the pop rivet gun. Rivet assembly back into place, replace the 3 8mm bolts and screw the cover back into place. No mess, no risk of contamination to oil sump, very quick and easy.
Martin Patterson September 2010 |
HAYTER HARRIER 41
REPLACING STARTER PULL CORD
1. You will need an assortment of the following 8mm, 9mm & 10mm sockets and spanners, 3/8” socket, small screw driver (electricians type is ideal). It appears that different sizes have been used over the years but the above should cover all possibilities.
2. Remove plug lead from spark plug
3. Remove petrol filler cap, cove filler hole with a plastic bag and replace the filler cap – this should stop petrol pouring out when you remove the tank.
4. Use screw driver to prise off the plastic flywheel cover.
5. Remove 3 screws holding plastic cover/fuel tank in place.
6. There is a fourth screw hidden away beneath the petrol filler. A 10m socket is required for this. When removing this screw do not lose the rubber packing washer.
7. With all 4 screws removed you can remove the petrol pipe at the tank end and lift off the plastic tank. Be prepared for petrol spillage or have something to block off the outlet pipe.
8. With the plastic tank removed you will see 2 bolts holding on the metal cowl, remove these and the two on the front face of the cowl.
9. Before removing the cowl wipe around the base of the oil filler tube to remove any debris or rubbish that could fall in when you remove the tube. Remove the screw holding the oil filler tube to the cowl and lift the tube out – stuff a rag into the hole to stop anything falling into the oil.
10. Lift off the metal cowl; you may need to undo the cable clamp if the screw is fouling the cowl. Put some light oil on the recoil wheel mechanism if you remember.
11. Rotate the recoil wheel until the hole in the rim aligns with the hole in the cowl and thread one end of the new rope through both holes and out again so that you have enough to tie a knot as near to the end as possible without it coming undone.
12. Wrap the cord around the wheel, leaving enough free to pass through the guides to the second guide loop plus about 3 inches. Thread the cord through the pull handle and loosely tie a knot to stop it falling off.
13. Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly but do not forget to re-tighten the cable clamp – you should set the speed lever to Fast and use a screwdriver to push the lever all the way to the left before tightening the clamp.
14. When you refit the plastic tank/cover you will need to undo the knot behind the pull handle and thread the cord through the cover.
15. When reassembly is complete replace the plug lead, prime the fuel and pull the starter.
PROBLEMS:
• If you have not left enough free cord simply pull more off the wheel until you have sufficient but first remove the plug lead to prevent it starting!
• If you have too much cord just tie the knot lower down the cord.
Dave Clare June 2008 |
I had a simiar problem to this on my mower, i drilled out the rivets, replaced the pullcord and then replaced the rivets with a combination of self tapping screws and bolts
chris January 2008 |
These would be the best people to ask :)
www.hayter.co.uk/pages/consumer/dealer_locator/
Paul December 2007 |